The rows of lacquered ducks hanging in the window are all the advertising this place needs. Sang Kee has been Chinatown's anchor for Peking duck since 1980, and the bird, roasted fresh daily with crackly, amber skin, is still the best version in the city. Order that first, then fill the table with wonton soup, BBQ pork, and whatever Cantonese staples the group can agree on. It's a big, loud, no-frills room, and that's exactly how it should be.