Alice

Named after chef Dave Conn's late mother, Alice runs on a charcoal-fired oven and a philosophy borrowed from her love of farmers markets and unpretentious eating. The menu roams freely, pulling from Indian flatbreads, chermoula lamb, and foie gras in the same breath, but the through line is always the fire. Follow the smoke when you order: the coal-roasted beets and charred octopus are where Conn's technique is most obvious. The room is dimly lit, warm, and easy to settle into for the night.