Almanac

You climb the stairs from Ogawa's sushi counter on Market Street to a room of roughly 21 seats, five of them at the bar. The classics get Japanese spirits and ingredients swapped in, so the old fashioned is sweetened with kokuto sugar and the sour is a shochu sour with Midori and Calpico. An oshibori towel and tea land in front of you when you sit down, and the kitchen sends out bar snacks like wasabi fries and a wagyu hot dog instead of a full dinner.