Kalaya

Southern Thai cooking from James Beard winner Nok Suntaranon, named for her mother who ran a market stall in Trang. The menu is strict about what it is: no pad Thai, just fiery, fragrant dishes like a five-hour goat curry stewed with shrimp paste and toasted coconut, or laab ped piled with crispy duck skin and chilis. The kitchen doesn't touch the spice levels, and the new Fishtown space, a converted warehouse with a skylit ceiling and open kitchen, is big enough to match the ambition of the food.