Dinner here is seven set courses for $40 a head, eaten by hand with bread from low cushioned banquettes. Staff pour rose water over your hands first, then the table moves from salads through b'stilla dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar, honey lamb with toasted almonds, and couscous, with fruit and pastry giving way to a pot of mint tea at the end. The small rooms spread across three floors, with hanging rugs, brass trays, and piles of colorful pillows. Booking is by phone only.