Royal Sushi & Izakaya

Chef Jesse Ito's Queen Village spot is two restaurants in one, and both halves are worth your time. Up front, a dimly lit izakaya with anime on the screens and small plates starting at $4 - gyoza, pork buns, hamachi in ponzu, a surprisingly great everything bagel roll. In the back, one of the most serious omakase counters in the country, with a 17-course sushi progression that runs $300 and books out months in advance. The place has no exterior signage, just a red lantern, which tells you exactly what kind of crowd they're going for.