The walk-up window on Girard is the whole point. You queue up, you order, you grab a seat at one of the picnic tables out front, and you eat a plate-sized New York-style slice showered in grated parmesan and romano with a crust that cracks when it should and caramelizes at the edges. The tomato pie, served cold in the Philly tradition, is just as essential: pillowy dough and a sweet Jersey tomato sauce that earns the praise. Rotating specialty slices lean seasonal and smart, but the classics are the reason this place has a following.