Vernick Fish

Greg Vernick's Logan Square seafood restaurant takes the American oyster bar format and runs it through a global lens. The menu spans crudo, shellfish, and cooked preparations with real range: amberjack crudo with passionfruit and crispy rice, king salmon with horseradish crème fraîche and green apple jus, crispy octopus with pickled jalapeños. It lives in the Four Seasons at the Comcast Center, and the room looks the part. The cocktails are serious, the wine list skews toward whites and sparkling, and this is squarely one of the best places in the city to eat fish.