Aaron Randi's Grays Ferry BYOB is one of the most quietly impressive rooms in the city right now. The 24-seat space occupies a former grocery storefront, and the menu runs about ten dishes deep, seasonal and focused, with Italian and American influences built around local seafood and produce from a binchotan coal-fired grill. Sophie Wieber bakes the sourdough daily from fresh-ground Lancaster wheat, spelt, and rye, and it sets the tone for everything that follows. Bring a bottle or two worth drinking, because the food here deserves them.