Borromini

Stephen Starr's 20th Philadelphia restaurant is his biggest swing yet, a 200-seat Italian landmark carved out of a former Barnes & Noble on Walnut Street with $20 million worth of bottle-lined walls, exposed brick, and soft light on two floors. The 100-Layer Lasagna is the dish everyone comes talking about, and it delivers, but the Roman pasta menu is where the kitchen earns its keep night after night. The cocktail program is sharper than you'd expect from a room this size, especially the nearly-frozen dirty mini martini. Get a table outside if you can, overlooking the Square.